7 Tips For Navigating Bordeaux’s Wine Region

I can distinctly bear in mind the primary time I visited a winery as a journey author. I used to be touring Canada’s Niagara Escarpment wine area and I requested a bunch of winemakers concerning the philosophy behind their work. They instructed me they have been anti-Bordeaux. Their disdain was such that after they went to the aforementioned French wine area for analysis, they really took photographs of themselves flipping the chook on the well-known Châteaux. Message obtained. Bordeaux was snobby, inaccessible, too huge for its britches.

I saved this story to myself after I was touring Bordeaux’s wine region this autumn as a part of a press journey. Nevertheless, late one evening and surrounded by many bottles, one thing in me determined to share the story. (I believe we are able to all agree that the “one thing” in query was wine!) To my utter delight, the younger winemakers at my desk roared in laughter. And, to my shock, they agreed with these Niagara producers. Bordeaux was too uptight, they stated, they usually have been dedicated to creating it extra accessible. Instantly, issues in Bordeaux didn’t appear that snobby in any respect. Seems, you don’t must be a lot of a wine skilled to have an incredible time in Bordeaux. You simply want a little bit steering!

1. Know A Bit About The Title

Researching a visit to Bordeaux will get a bit complicated at instances, thanks partially to the various meanings of the phrase itself. Bordeaux is the title of a metropolis, the ninth largest in France. It may possibly additionally confer with the municipal area across the metropolis. And, in fact, Bordeaux refers to a wine area. And what a wine area it’s!

The Bordeaux wine area is the most important in France and one of many greatest on the earth. And it’s followers would make a passionate case that it’s the greatest. In his ebook Wine Easy, sommelier Aldo Sohm writes, “If you ask critics for his or her lifetime high ten, I promise you that there will likely be at least two Bordeaux in there.”

And that results in one more that means of the phrase Bordeaux. It may be shorthand for an awesome bottle of wine, often pink, that comes from this area. However the one factor it’s not is a grape. The area is synonymous with cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes however there’s no ‘Bordeaux’ grape”.

2. Get A Grasp On Geography

Bordeaux’s wine area is a little bit bit like New York City. The town is split into boroughs subdivided into additional neighborhoods. Every neighborhood has their very own value level and worth proposition and it doesn’t actually matter if it’s tiny or big however everybody agrees that being near the river is all the time an enormous deal. Everybody’s making pizza and also you’ve bought distinct native kinds and particular person producers who stake their reputations on small particulars just like the nuance within the substances and preparation course of.

That’s Bordeaux for you. It has a number of giant areas and, inside every, there are smaller areas referred to as appellations. “Appellation” comes from the French phrase “appel”, that means “to name.” Identical to you’ll be able to solely name your self a real Brooklynite if you happen to dwell in Brooklyn and cheer for the Nets, in Bordeaux a wine is just a part of an appellation if it grew up there — and follows sure requirements. On this case, it’s not what sports activities staff you cheer for however the way in which grapes are used and the way. As an alternative of pizza parlors, there are wine-producing estates known as châteaux. In among the smallest appellations, there may be a number of half a dozen châteaux producing their namesake wine.

3. Respect The Function Of The River

These areas and appellations are extremely influenced by their proximity to water. Bordeaux is formed fairly actually by the Gironde Estuary (the purpose the place the Dordogne River and the Garonne River meet after which head out to sea). The Gironde splits the area in two, making a left financial institution and a proper financial institution — in addition to a pocket of land within the house between the Dordogne and Garonne referred to as Entre-Deux-Mers or “between two seas.” As a really free rule, the left financial institution tends to supply costlier wines and grows a variety of cabernet sauvignon, whereas the suitable is a contact extra reasonably priced and sometimes produces merlot grapes. Nevertheless, the reality is that you’ll find bargains and splurges and completely different grapes nearly anyplace.

In case you’re instantly feeling a bit bamboozled by the thought of remembering river banks and appellations, it’s useful to know that Bordeaux, like all wine areas, is basically all about agriculture. Water and panorama and soil high quality and rising circumstances have an effect on wine like every other crop. And in Bordeaux, you’ve bought some superb farmers that carry all of it collectively!

4. You Don’t Want To Be An Knowledgeable, Actually!

In the event you’re pondering to your self that the thought of visiting dozens of appellations, every containing a large number of châteaux (i.e. vineyard estates) is overwhelming, you’re completely proper. And therein lies the liberty of Bordeaux. Nobody might presumably know each wine, from yearly, from each vineyard, in each appellation. You may spend your whole life simply attending to know the wines of 1 tiny appellation, the variations within the soil at every château, the consequences of ageing in several barrels. As such, can anybody actually name themselves a Bordeaux skilled? It’s not possible! Which implies that this can be a area for everybody. 

5. You Can Stick With The Metropolis

There’s no proper or mistaken place to begin a Bordeaux wine tour. Nevertheless, it’s value mentioning that, if you happen to can’t depart town, you’ll be able to nonetheless take pleasure in an exquisite wine expertise. Bordeaux is dwelling to a wonderful wine museum, Cité du Vin. A glass of wine on the rooftop bar is included with admission and there may be additionally an outstanding restaurant on website. 

Bordeaux is stuffed with wine retailers however the most effective of the most effective is L’Intendant. Situated within the coronary heart of town, only a few quick steps from the Opera Home, this multi-story wine store is constructed round a large round staircase and is a dream for photographers in addition to oenophiles. You’ll discover cheap bottles on the bottom flooring, together with useful workers who can prepare worldwide delivery. 

6. Discover Guided Day Journeys To Wine Nation

There are dozens of guided tour choices in Bordeaux wine nation and the tourism workplace has a nicely organized web page itemizing lots of them. The inexpensive excursions, beginning at only a few euros, are designed for individuals with their very own transportation. Look past the prosaic winery tour and tasting combos for extra inspiring actions, like this mixture of a wine and chocolate tasting. 

Increased priced objects embody transportation from Bordeaux metropolis middle and sometimes run a full day. You possibly can count on to pay as much as 150 euros (round $170) for a small group tour that features lunch, a village tour, and a go to to 2 vineyards. I like this day-long visit to St-Emilion which features a bike trip, a strolling tour, and winery lunch.

A guided tour is a pleasant approach to see issues additional afield with out having to fret about driving, navigating, and hiring a automotive. Nevertheless, you might be restricted by a decent schedule and set itinerary. A way more versatile and economical possibility is to design your personal excursions.

7. You Can Plan A DIY Bordeaux Wine Tour

It’s completely doable to discover by yourself. The truth is, you won’t even want a automotive! You need to use public transportation to go to many châteaux simply exterior town of Bordeaux. In the event you’re prepared so as to add on a motorbike rental, your choices improve much more. The tourism board has an excellent page outlining the different options. I’ve adopted their directions for touring between town middle and Podensac and had a wonderful expertise.

In the event you do discover the area by yourself by automotive, plan on appointing a delegated driver with a completely charged cellphone and GPS functionality for navigation. With your personal wheels, the world is your oyster (an apt cliche, as among the world’s greatest shellfish comes from the Bordeaux coast!) You possibly can discover by curiosity or appellation. The Bordeaux Wine Trip blog (a part of Pulpe Journal), has lists of vineyards in line with theme — like artsy vineyards, eco-properties, historic vineyards, and so forth. In the event you’re overwhelmed on the place to begin, think about embracing a theme to information your journey. 

Alternatively, select an appellation and begin exploring. I’d go along with a tiny one. It’s a lot simpler to get a way of what Pomerol-produced wine is like than Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux, simply since you’ll be spending far much less time driving round. Relaxation assured that each appellation produces wonderful pink and white wines and wineries are keen that will help you discover a mix that you just love. You possibly can count on heat welcomes that may even make these Niagara producers change their minds!

Professional Tip: Background Studying

There’s an awesome part on Bordeaux in Elizabeth Schneider’s enjoyable and easy-to-read ebook, Wine For Normal People.

For extra info on Bordeaux and the delectable wine loved worldwide: